This morning came early. Really, *REALLY* early. Yesterday was one of those days when damn near everything that could go wrong did go wrong. It was so hyperbolic that if it were a movie, nobody would have believed it. So by 5:38 o’clock this morning I’d been awake for a couple of hours. And I was rewarded with this disturbing (because of the Canadian wildfires) but spectacular smoky sunrise over Lake Champlain.
Smoky Sunrise Over Lake Champlain (Photo: Geo Davis)
That photograph above captures most of the drama, but the burning orb ascending from Vermont’s Green Mountains was actually an even crazier color of fluorescent orangey pink. Surreal. And big. And super bright. The entire Champlain Valley was thick with mustard grey-brown haze. Yes, these smoky skies are courtesy of the hundreds of Canadian wildfires burning out of control. And, no, the uncanny twist of fate — we fled Santa Fe a year ago to escape the sooty pollution of out-of-control wildfires only yo be inunda with the same now in Essex, New York — isn’t lost on us. Crazy times.
And yet, the upside of our Adirondack Coast choking on alarming high particulate counts for our typically pristine air is the sunrises and sunsets. They’ve been otherworldly.
Smoky Sunrise Over Lake Champlain (Photo: Geo Davis)
As this morning’s smoky sunrise yielded to the smoke, our environs looked as if a huge storm were overtaking us. But no, in the second photo above, you can see no storm. Just the long lingering aftermath of burning forests.
Today quickly shifted into unseasonably humid and scorching conditions which was challenging for everyone working on the icehouse rehab, but the smoke lifted, and this afternoon’s air quality is considerably improved.
Rosslyn (aka the W.D. Ross Mansion, Hyde Gate, and Sherwood Inn) in Essex, NY.
Rosslyn, the second oldest home on Essex, New York’s Merchant Row, is located just south of The Dower House. This historic home (also known as the W.D. Ross Mansion, Hyde Gate, and The Sherwood Inn) was built by William D. Ross for his bride Mary Ann Gould (c. 1826-8) (“Essex: An Architectural Guide.” 30).
Primarily Georgian in style, Rosslyn also exhibits elements of Federal and Greek Revival architecture. The central entryway of the five-bay facade is flanked by sidelight windows placed symmetrically on both sides of the doorway and an elegant fanlight above the doorway.
“The structure is noteworthy for its exceptional Doric cornice following a design from a pattern book by Boston architect Asher Benjamin, The American Builder’s Companion (1826).” (“Essex: An Architectural Guide.” 30)
Rosslyn faces Lake Champlain and Vermont’s Green Mountains beyond. Expansive lawns, locally quarried stone walls, an early 19th century inspired fence, and the alignment (and spacing) of Rosslyn’s outbuildings contribute to the classical proportions of this stately property. Rosslyn’s whimsical boathouse, still visible wharves, and a painstakingly restored waterfront recollect the Ross family’s shipping merchant heritage and The Sherwood Inn’s decades as a popular vacation destination.
Renovating Rosslyn
Like many of the homes in Historic Essex, NY, Rosslyn has experienced many cycles of renovation, neglect, alteration and restoration. As the second oldest home on Merchant Row (and one of the oldest residences in Essex village) it is difficult to ascertain the property’s precise historic lineage. While construction of the original brick and stone structure most likely began in 1820, there are indications that it either replaced (or augmented) and already constructed wood frame house…
A significant rear wing was added to Rosslyn in the early 19th century for domestic services (kitchen, pantry, etc.) and servants quarters. It was once common for wealthy families to hire and house live-in servants (cleaning staff, cooks, gardeners, nannies, etc.), however shifting social norms and economics diminished the practice in the United States making servant quarters increasingly rare.
Early in the 20th century Rosslyn was converted into The Sherwood Inn, and the service wing was renovated to accommodate guest lodging, restaurant and tavern. When the Sherwood Inn ceased operation in the late 1950s or early 1960s the rear wing was mostly removed and the remaining addition was adapted to residential use.
“It’s worth noting that the house was constructed out of brick (with stone foundations) and not wood. But this detail — like the soft math when recollecting the number and function of servants — matters little and reveals the patina-ing power of time’s passage. The other notable difference between Hyde Gate as Lesh describes it and Rosslyn as she stands today is that the veranda has been removed, revealing an older — and most likely original — stone stairway and entrance. The owner from whom we purchased the property undertook this alteration in a nod to historic authenticity. He too felt obliged to leave his imprint on the front facade of the house and erected a Greek Revival columned entrance roof which incorporates subtle Georgian detailing…” (Rosslyn Redux)
The Rosslyn property once consisted of many outbuildings including an ice house, a carriage house, several barns, a granary, and a privy (Images of America: Essex on Lake Champlain. 119). The ice house was the best way to store and preserve food in the past before electricity and refrigeration. The house’s location next to the lake would have been advantageous because in the winter ice could be cut from the frozen lake and brought to the ice house to store for summer.
A note discovered at Rosslyn identifies June 13, 1908 as the date that the home was first hooked up to electricity by Guy H. Mason (Images of America: Essex on Lake Champlain. 87). With the increasing ease of indoor plumbing, electricity, and other conveniences many of Rosslyn’s outbuildings became obsolete and were eventually removed. Today the ice house, carriage house and a boathouse (dock house) which was likely constructed in the late 1800s remain and have been renovated.
Rosslyn Boathouse
Kestrel docked at Rosslyn boathouse
Built on a pier jutting into Lake Champlain in Essex, NY, stands a charming dock house constructed in 1898 (“Essex: An Architectural Guide.” 30). Rosslyn boathouse is modeled on a late 19th century Eastlake Design, considered part of the Queen Anne style of Victorian architecture (Images of America: Essex on Lake Champlain. 118).
Popular boat races and regattas took place on the Essex waterfront drawing competitors and spectators to the Rosslyn boathouse and shoreline from near and far. While boating regattas have dwindled in the last half century, Rosslyn boathouse remains a spectacular spot for viewing the Essex fireworks on the Fourth of July.
Kestrel
Although Rosslyn boathouse is part of the original W.D. Ross family property, it was not constructed by or for the Ross family. The turn-of-the century building was most likely designed and built for the Keyser family to accommodate their 62 ft. long, steam-powered yacht, Kestrel. Constructed entirely of mahogany, the yacht plied Lake Champlain’s water the 1890’s through the 1930’s, becoming as much an iconic vessel in Essex history as the boathouse has become in the century since it first adorned Merchant Row.
Although the Keysers may have initially kept their yacht on their own waterfront north of Essex, their dock and/or boathouse was rendered unusable by ice or flood damage. Kestrel required local dockage for convenient access and an ample supply of coal to power the steam engine, so the Keyser family purchased a small piece of land on the lake from the Ross family and proceeded to build a dock, boathouse, and coal storage bin for the yacht. The Keyser boathouse has persevered through many floods and ice flows, and today it is once again part of the Rosslyn property. (The Kestrel: An Essex Icon by Morris F. Glen)
Reawakening a home, a dream and ourselves
Rosslyn Redux is a vicarious plunge into the idiosyncrasies (and absurdities) of renovating a circa 1822 historic home and boathouse in Essex, NY. The memoir by flâneur and storyteller, virtualDavis, is available at abdul2.rosslynredux.com.
I’m a fan of train travel, so I’m especially joy-filled now that Amtrak service between Manhattan and Montreal has been restored to service. No finer way to travel between New York City and the Adirondack Coast. Actually, let me amend that opinion. There’s plenty of pleasure arriving at the train station in Westport, our closest passenger stop. But can you imagine for a moment being able to board and disembark from Amtrak’s Adirondack just up the road? That’s right, restoring service to the long ago discontinued Essex Railroad Station would indeed be the finest way to locomote between NYC and SX!
Before inspecting the photographs adorning the vintage postcards above and below, let’s familiarize ourselves with the above mentioned train know by Amtrak as the Adirondack.
The Adirondack travels from New York City, through the lush wine country of the Hudson Valley, into Montreal. Heading north, you’re scheduled to depart New York’s Moynihan Train Hall in the morning and arrive in Montreal in the evening. Board the southbound train anywhere along the line and arrive in mid-town Manhattan in time to enjoy dinner and nightlife in New York City. (Source: Amtrak)
While growing up in the Adirondacks — and more recently when Susan and I still volleyed back-and-forth between Manhattan and Westport then Essex) — the Adirondack was my go-to transportation by convenience and preference. Although the timing/schedule can be unpredictable, I’ve consistently opted for Amtrak to shuttle me between New York City and the Adirondack Coast for the better part of half a century. The brief blurb above does little justice to this spectacular journey skirting the Hudson River, Champlain Canal, and Lake Champlain.
Sadly the route was suspended during the pandemic and only resumed service a little over a month ago. Welcome back, Adirondack!
Amtrak, in conjunction with VIA Rail Canada (VIA Rail), New York State Department of Transportation (NYSDOT) and other federal agencies, is resuming train service between New York City and Montreal via the Adirondack train today, Monday, April 3. This milestone marks the return of all Amtrak and VIA Rail cross border service between the United States and Canada for the first time since 2020 and aligns with the growing demand of train travel in both countries. (Source: Amtrak)
After roughly three years’ absence, the restored service is long overdue and widely praised.
“The cultural riches and natural beauty along the Adirondack train route amount to an experience that is unlike anything else in the world, and it highlights the importance of this service – making it easy and fun for travelers to be able to enjoy the unique treasures of the Empire State,” said New York State Department of Transportation Commissioner Marie Therese Dominguez. (Source: Amtrak)
At this point my love for this train route is evident, but I’ve neglected the present postcards (and my hope that possibly, just possibly, one day we’ll again enjoy an Essex Railroad Station!)
Both of these sepia hued images of yesteryear document the former Essex Railroad Station. Not sure when or how the building was lost, but I’ll update if/when I find out.
And if you’re the curious sort, as I am, I’ve included the backsides of the postcards. Turning your device sidewise reveals the amusing note on the first card.
Was it an indigo bunting (Passerina cyanea) I spied at our bird feeder?
Rather than whining through another verse of the Bali Blues on my harmonica, I awoke on my first morning back at Rosslyn in a fever to jump-start autumn/winter rituals. Top of the list was setting up the bird feeders in anticipation of Adirondack birding. A recent radio report on Vermont Public Radio had mentioned that October through April is the recommended bird feeding season. Sorry birds!
Set up (and filled) bird feeders for fall/winter/spring. Off to a gr8 birding season: bluejays, chickadees, cardinals and indigo bunting.
I hasten to add (for the sake of Ellen Pober Rittberg (@ellen_rittberg) and any other seasoned birders who I may have inadvertently mislead) that I’m not 100% certain I saw an indigo bunting. The size and general description in our bird books were spot-on, but the coloration was considerably darker than the flashy blue in the illustrations. And I realize that the beginning of November is late in the migration calendar for an indigo bunting to be spotted this far north. Perhaps this helps?
“It displays sexual dimorphism in its coloration; the male is a vibrant blue in the summer and a brown color during the winter months, while the female is brown year-round.” (Wikipedia)
Either the late date explains the closer-to-blue-black coloration of the bird I spied at the feeders hanging in our ginkgo or else I’ve misrepresented the fancy fellow. (All other suggestions are welcome in the comments below!)
In any case, kamikaze chickadees began dive bombing me while I was installing the bird feeders despite the fact that all four feeders were empty. At first. Until they weren’t. I stuffed them with black oil sunflower seeds. And waited. But the birds were gone! So much for Adirondack birding…
So much for squirrel-proof bird feeders. You've gotta respect our Adirondack "monkeys", no? #rossl @ Rosslyn http://t.co/H4nWLYYV
I’ve accepted that I’m not making any headway toward convincing my haven-for-wildlife-unless-they’re-predators bride that we should feed songbirds, not squirrels. Perhaps its time to swap Adirondack birding for Adirondack squirreling aspirations? Although, the latter conjures up the image of my bearded, red and black check wool coated, Daniel Boone hat wearing, shotgun toting alter ego trudging through the snow.
I suppose it doesn’t much matter if we feed the birds or the squirrels, especially since the latter inevitably results in considerably wilder window safaris. And yet I still have some misgivings.
The idea started logically enough. Sprinkle excess food on the stone walls, etc. so the squirrels will not try to “rob” food from the bird feeders.
Unfortunately, the squirrel population mushroomed last winter and the songbird population shrank. Are the wee feathered critters intimidated by the squirrels? I suspect the equation is a bit more complicated.
You see in addition to squirrels, my bride’s robust feeding regimen also attracted a healthy host of doves and pigeons. And crows. It seems that the density of big critters discourages the little songbirds, but I’m venturing into the land of brazen hypothesis here. With plenty of plump squirrels and pigeons waddling around, it was only a matter of time before savvy foxes and hawks got wind of the Rosslyn buffet. I suspect that it doesn’t take too many fox attacks and hawk attacks before the songbirds wise up and search for friendlier dining.
Stay tuned for further developments.
In the mean time, I’ll enjoy the abundance of songbirds that have been flocking to our feeders over the past couple of days. And the endless Canada Geese migrating south, many of which stop on Rosslyn’s waterfront to spend the night. There must have been three hundred geese standing along the shoreline and bobbing in the morning waves when I looked out my office window today!
It’s time for a follow-up to my Organic Orcharding post, specifically a detailed look at how to use Tanglefoot for non-toxic pest control in a holistic fruit tree orchard. For readers wondering about zone compatibility and looking for a regional reference to help you evaluate the relevance of this post to your individual growing conditions, our orchard is located in Essex, New York along the Adirondack Coast of the Champlain Valley. We are purists when it comes to holistic orcharding and gardening (despite challenges unique to growing fruits and vegetables in the North Country) and we have come to rely on Tanglefoot summer after summer. (You may also want to check out my post, “How to Apply Tanglefoot to Trees“ for a simple, straightforward how-to video. Your holistic orchard will thank you in abundance!)
Pre-Goo & Post-Goo
Here’s a glimpse at the first two phases of Tanglefoot installation, documented in Rosslyn’s 100% organic orchard. This first photo was taken just before the sticky goo was lathered onto the corrugated paper.
Tanglefoot Installation: wrap trunk with corrugated paper (Source: Geo Davis)
So tidy, right? Not for long! Here’s what it looks like after the sticky Tanglefoot is installed.
Tanglefoot Installation: lather ultra gooey Tanglefoot on the corrugated paper wrapped around tree trunk. (Source: Geo Davis)
Yuck! Hopefully the noisome critters that like to climb up the trunks of fruit trees agree.
It’s a messy installation process, but it seems to work pretty well.
How to Use Tanglefoot
I’ll prologue the most important part of this post by saying two things:
Applying Tanglefoot to fruit trees a messy but relatively straightforward task.
Better instructors have already explained application, so I’ll defer to their able guidance rather than overlook something important.
One of the best step-by-step Tanglefoot installation videos was made by San Diego master gardeners Carol Graham (unfortunately no longer available online). Similarly thorough written instructions are provided by the products’s manufacturer, Contech-Inc:
We recommend using 4” wide wrap of waterproof paper or tape on the trunk of the tree and applying Tree Tanglefoot over the wrap. Tree Tanglefoot is oil-based and the oils will soak into the bark. Banding material eliminates staining of the tree and offers quick, complete removal of the sticky material. In addition, Tree Tanglefoot will remain sticky longer when applied on top of a surface resistant to oil. For rough bark trees it may be necessary to plug the gaps between the tree trunk and the banding, this can be done by using insulation or other materials.
Apply Tree Tanglefoot Insect barrier in a uniform fashion. It can be applied in a heavy or light coat. Heavy coats are approximately 3” wide and 3/32” thick. A heavy coat is used when the insects to kept from the tree foliage are large or numerous, or when there is little time available to maintain the band. Light coats are 3” wide and 1/16” thick. A light coat is good as a general barrier against smaller or less numerous insects, or when the band can be maintained regularly.
Generally, Tree Tanglefoot will remain sticky and effective until it is covered with insects, dust or other debris. A build-up of debris or insects will create a bridge for other insect to cross. This debris requires removal and possible re-application in spots. If an area is unusually dusty or the surface of the barrier is stiffened, Tree Tanglefoot can be rubbed around to expose a new sticky layer beneath. Remove bands at end of season. (Source: Tree Tanglefoot Insect Barrier Products – Contech Inc)
Still a little uncertain? (Or just procrastinating to avoid making a gooey-sticky mess?) Here’s another resource I’ve also relied upon for amazing step-by-step Tanglefoot guide with photographs. Here are the simple, straightforward instructions.
Using a putty knife or a cake decorating spatula. If you choose a putty knife be very careful with the edges and corners as they are very sharp and can easily damage the bark of the tree. I recommend using a cake decorating spatula because they have rounded edges at the tip.
1. Wrap your tree in plastic film
2. Soften up a glob of Tanglefoot with the spatula
3. Work it into a smooth lump without strings back to the bucket
4. Apply the product in a thin 1″ wide band a few inches from the top of the plastic all the way around the tree creating a complete circle
5. Drag your spatula in the same direction that you wrapped the tree with the plastic. If you go the other way you’ll just pull the plastic right off
6.Make another band of Tanglefoot a few inches down from the first band. This creates 2 barriers that work together to stop the pests from walking up your tree (Source: How to Use Tanglefoot – Backyard Food Growing)
I use the paper “tape” version and have not yet tried the plastic film, but I’m intrigued. However this post made me wary.
I got some Tanglefoot this year for my apple trees, had a lot of problems with ants last year. I tried attaching bands of saran wrap around the tree trunks and applying the Tanglefoot that way. That was a complete disaster/mess, so I called the Tanglefoot manufacturer and asked if it would harm my trees to apply their product directly to the bark. They said that other than a dark ring/stain around the tree, no, it should not harm the tree at all to be directly applied. So, that is what I did. Did it about a month ago. No signs of any tree trouble yet. (Source: Putting tanglefoot on trees directly – GardenWeb)
I decided to ask the author, Stacy, the about plastic wrap vs. paper banding.
Great post, and the photo play-by-play is the best resource I’ve found online! Thank you. This is my first foray into fruit tree pest tangling (wrangling?), and I’m curious about your preference for plastic wrap instead of the paper/cardboard option proposed by the manufacturer. I’m guessing you’ve tried both and decided that the plastic wrap works better? Would you be willing to explain the pros and cons of plastic instead of paper? Hoping to get this right the first time! Thanks.
Stacy answered my question the very same day (Wow! Thanks, Stacy.) as follows:
Thank you! I’m happy the pictures are helpful for you. You’ll do just fine, the hardest part is keeping it off of yourself and your clothes! I have a few reasons for the plastic.
The method that I show here (with the two stripes/plastic/cotton balls) was the way I was taught during my first experience with Tanglefoot, I didn’t even know about the cardboard at that point. It wasn’t until I started working in a retail nursery a few years later that I found out about the cardboard wrap.
I think the cardboard wrap could be good if your tree is perfectly smooth, as it leaves gaps that the bugs can walk under unobstructed. It might work ok if you put cotton balls under it and secure it tightly to close those gaps though.
Also, I don’t choose the cardboard because I live in a very rainy climate and the cardboard would disintegrate in no time at all. If your area is less rainy then it would probably be ok. I prefer the plastic too because it holds tight to the bark and stays put for the month or two that it’s on there.
I’ve just continued to use the plastic/cotton balls method because it was simple and used items I already had at home, there wasn’t an additional product that I needed to buy.
It’s just important to get the plastic off when the season is done or when the Tanglefoot becomes ineffective, the plastic allows no airflow for the bark. This would be a benefit to using the cardboard. (Source: backyardfoodgrowing.com)
Thanks again, Stacy.
Needless to say, I still haven’t tried the plastic film. Three years of installation with paper wraps, and the approach seems to be working. So, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!
It’s Tanglefoot time again. Actually, we’re late — really late! — due to this rainy, soggy summer. But better late than never, especially since I’ve begun to spy the first tent caterpillars of the 2017 season.
First a quick refresher. A little over a year ago I explained how to use Tanglefoot and I explained why holistic orcharding benefits from this goopy ritual.
It’s a messy installation process, but it seems to work pretty well… Applying Tanglefoot to fruit trees a messy but relatively straightforward task. Better instructors have already explained application, so I’ll defer to their able guidance rather than overlook something important. (Source: How to Use Tanglefoot (And Why Fruit Trees Need It))
That post includes the excellent advice of “better instructors”, but I wanted to follow up with a quick visual instructional to show you how to apply Tanglefoot. Consider it a supplement. Quick tips.
How to Apply Tanglefoot (Source: Geo Davis)
How to Apply Tanglefoot
In the previous post I discuss using plastic film to wrap the tree trunk, but four years into our Tanglefoot adventure, we’re still using paper/cardboard wraps like in the photo above. It’s simple, quick, biodegradable, and it seems to work perfectly. And it’s a little less plastic to use and put into a landfill!
After securing the cardboard wrap with a piece of hemp twine, the only challenge is to sear Tanglefoot around the circumference of the tree without getting it all over your hands…
Following is a quick video / slide show intended for orchardists, fruit tree hobbyists, or basically anybody who wants quick and easy instruction for how to apply Tanglefoot on young (i.e. slender trunk) trees. Many thanks to Jacob for letting me photograph his hands during installation.
I hope you find the video helpful. We’ve been extremely satisfied with the results year-after-year, and we’re happy to recommend Tanglefoot (and confident in our recommendation) for other fruit tree growers. And if you’re looking for a little broader perspective on why we use and recommend this somewhat unconventional pest prevention solution in our organic orchard, definitely check out my post, “How to Use Tanglefoot (And Why Fruit Trees Need It)“. I’m confident you’ll be pleased with the results. Good luck!
[The following excerpt, “History of Essex, New York”, has been taken from Chapter XXXIV (pp. 540-559) of History of Essex County with Illustrations and Biographical Sketches of Some of its Prominent Men and Pioneers, edited by H. P. Smith, published by D. Mason & Co., Publishers and Printers, 63 West Water St., Syracuse, NY 1885. Text has been cross referenced between the print original (in my possession) and an online facsmimile found at history.rays-place.com.]
History of the Town of Essex
ESSEX was formed from Willsborough on the 4th of April, 1805. It lies on the shore of the lake, north of the center of the county. It is bounded on the north by the town of Willsborough, east by the lake, south by Westport, and west by Lewis. The southeastern coast is marked by the projection into the lake of Split Rock. On the south side of Split Rock is an oval bay called Grog Harbor, from the seizure and destruction at that place of a bateau-load of rum, captured from the British during the War of the Revolution. The rum was spilled into the harbor to save it from recapture. It is nearly opposite the mouth of Otter Creek and Fort Cassin on the Vermont side. In 1814 the British, designing to seize the stores and ammunitions at Vergennes, attacked the fort The onslaught was made on a Sunday afternoon and was witnessed by large numbers of people who stood on the mountain side south of Split Rock. After the firing of two hundred cannon shots and the dismantling of five of the seven guns of the fort, the discomfited fleet withdrew. This defeat of the British was the precursor of their subsequent overthrow at Plattsburg. On the north side of Split Rock sparkle the waters of Whallon’s bay, a place of surpassing natural beauty.
In 1786 Judge R. A. Heirn settled on a tract of a thousand acres of land west of this bay, erecting large dwellings, barns and tenement houses in the English style, and assuming manorial dignities. His wife was a dusky daughter of the West Indies. The manor is now owned and occupied by Wesley G. Lyon. (See chart made by Judge Heirn and inserted in subsequent page.) Judge Heirn engaged largely in the lumber business, and, through some mismanagement, lost heavily and was forced to dispose of his estates and leave for other parts. The old buildings are still standing and have been put in repair by the present owner. “The broad piazzas, the lawn of many acres sloping down to the shore, the splendid elms and fruit trees, remain as they were planned and set by the original proprietor.”
In the northwestern part of the town is the Boquet mountain, as it is locally termed, with an elevation of about fifteen hundred feet above tide. It is one of the most symmetrical and impressive mountains in the county. The Boquet river flows northerly through nearly the center of the town. It has been described in the preceding history of Willsborough. The formation known by geologists as the Terraces of Lake Champlain are very marked in Essex. They run nearly parallel with the line of the shore, and can be traced for some miles into the interior. The surface of Lake Champlain is only about ninety feet above tide-water, and in the process of excavating in the town, large quantities of marine shells are discovered every year. These shells are also found on the summit of Poke-o’-Moonshine mountain in Chesterfield, a mass of solid azoic rock over two thousand feet above tide. The soil of Essex is clay, loam and gravel, and is well adapted for farming and grazing purposes. The township contains some of the finest farms on Lake Champlain. Large quantities of hay, beans, wool and butter are annually exported. The mineral composition of the soil is a hypersthene rock overiaia with Chazy and Trenton limestone and Hudson river slate. Potsdam sandstone crops out in places along the line of the Boquet river. The limestone is of a superior quality for building purposes and the manufacture of lime. Large quarries have been opened in the town for public works, for building the canals, and for the masonry of the Vermont Central Railroad. It is so stratified that blocks of nearly every thickness can be easily quarried. It takes a high black polish, and has been much used in ornamental work. Great quantities have been burned into lime -in the village of Essex and shipped to various markets. A fine cement rock is also found in this town. The formations of rock are highly interesting on account of the varied and numerous fossils contained in them. In the south part of the town, on the lake shore at Cannon Point, is a remarkable natural curiosity, giving certain evidence of a prehistoric eruption. From a point near the shore, bearing unmistakable signs of having at one time formed the crater of a volcano, is a center from which radiate three veins, or rather streams of igneous rock, one extending towards the lake and constituting the point, one running to the northwest, which has been traced nearly two miles, and the third running to the southwest, which has been traced more than three miles. This melted rock has also filled in many of the horizontal spaces between the strata of lime rock in the vicinity, as may be readily seen along the bluffs of the lake shore. The rock of this overflow is a handsome porphyry filled with rectangular crystals of compact feldspar, which is very hard, susceptible of the highest polish, and has been much used for ornamental purposes.
In the south part of the town, on the lot owned by William R. Derby, is found a very valuable deposit of rose quartz of a superior quality and adapted to the manufacture and finishing of china and stoneware. Many porphyry dykes are also found in this town.
The territory embraced in the boundaries of the town of Essex, in common with the other lake towns of the county, was first taken from the hands of the aborigines by the French. On the 13th of June, King Louis XV, of France gave a large tract of land to Sieur Louis Joseph Robart, his storekeeper at Montreal. Nathaniel B. Sylvester, in his valuable work, Northern New York and the Adirondack Wilderness, quotes the description of this seigneurie as follows: “Three leagues front by two leagues in depth on the west side of Lake Champlain, taking, in going down, one league below [north of] the River Boquet, and in going up, two and one-half above said river.” The French, who never effected a settlement, were forced to recede before the power of British aggressions on the conquest of 1760. Their possessions were practically confiscated by the British government and disregarded in the location of its subsequent grants. The French claimants for a long time appealed to both the courts and crown of England to obtain the restitution of their possessions, but without success. In many cases they were conciliated by equivalent grants of land in Canada. Even since the Revolution they have a number of times asserted their claims in the courts of this country. In 1809 the Supreme court of New York rendered a decision adverse to the validity of the French concessions. (See Johnson’s rep. 18, 163.)
There was no settlement in the town which tended to the permanent colonization of the country until the arrival of William Gilliland in the spring of 1765. This eminent pioneer first purchased parts of the seigneurie of Sieur Robart, king’s storekeeper at Montreal, and attempted to found a baronial manor, in imitation of those situated on the Hudson river. His first tract was six miles front on the lake and from three to four deep. He afterwards purchased other extensive tracts, a full account of which and his later persecutions is given in earlier chapters of this work.
He was born near the city of Armagh, Ireland, about 1734, and received his education there. His cultured manners, general intelligence, and fine person, made him a favorite wherever he was known. He became attached to a young lady of fortune and noble parentage named Lady Betsey Eckles. The disparity in their birth and fortune reared a barrier, and her family secluded her and used their influence to secure his banishment. He then enlisted in the 35th Regiment of the line, and after four years’ service was discharged, alone and friendless, in Philadelphia. He went to New York, entered a prominent mercantile house, and within a year became a partner. He married Elizabeth Phagan (February 8th, 1759), the beautiful and accomplished daughter of his partner, receiving with her a dowry of £ 1,500. His later operations in Essex county are, as we have said, detailed in preceding chapter.
He has numerous descendants still living, in this town and in Willsborough, which it will be interesting to name.
William Gilliland’s daughter Elizabeth married Daniel Ross about 1785, and settled at what was then called Elizabeth, now the village of Essex. His daughter, Eliza Ross, was the first white child born in the town (1786). Daniel Ross was the first settler in what is now the town of Essex. He built the first iron works in Willsborough in 1800, and was always a most liberal patron of the iron trade in all its branches. He was sheriff of Clinton county before its division, and represented that county in the State Legislature. He was appointed the first judge of Essex county, when it was formed, and held the office nearly thirty years. One of his sons, General Henry H. Ross, afterwards a prominent man in Essex county, was one of the first white children born in the town (1790). General Ross lived in Essex all his life and died in September, 1862. He was unanimously elected the first judge of the county under the new constitution of 1846, and several times represented his district in Congress. As adjutant of the Thirty-seventh Regiment of Militia he served on General McComb’s staff at the battle of Plattsburg, and was afterwards and for some time a major-general in the militia. Of his descendants, his youngest son, Anthony J. B. Ross, two daughters, Mrs. Ellen B. Fairbanks (widow of Rev. J. N. Fairbanks, an Episcopal clergyman), and Frances J. Ross, now live together in the old homestead called “Hickory Hill” in the village of Essex. This homestead was built by Henry H. Ross in 1820. In 1822 Henry H. Ross married Susannah Blanchard, daughter of Judge Anthony J. Blanchard, of Salem, N. Y. She died February 26th, 1877.
James B. Ross, another son of Henry H. Ross, is now practicing law in Denver, Col. His son, Henry H. Ross, 2d, in July, 1881, married Anna Noble, and in December, 1882, died at Denver, leaving one child, a son, James H. H. Ross, who was born the day before his father died. He now lives with his mother in the village of Essex, at her place called “Rosslyn,” and represents the fifth generation in the direct line of the descendants of William Gilliland. The other descendants of Daniel Ross and Elizabeth Gilliland were William D. Ross, who passed all his life in the village of Essex, and died in 1844. He was extensively engaged in lumbering and mercantile business, and the manufacture of iron. His descendants are now living in Chicago, Plattsburg, and in Washington county, N. Y. Edward Ross, another son, who died unmarried in 1825, aged thirty-three years. The two daughters of Daniel Ross were Eliza, wife of Charles Platt and afterwards of Ransom Noble, late of Essex, and Sarah, wife of Charles Noble, late of Elizabethtown.
The children of Henry H. Ross, now living in Essex county, are James B. Ross, lawyer, of Denver, Col.; Frederick H. Ross, merchant, of Dowagiac, Mich.; and John Ross, for many years engaged in building steam and sail vessels, and in general wood manufacturing at Essex, and flO\v of the Plattsburg Dock Company. His adopted daughter, Susannah Ross, is the wife of Rev. E. D. Cooper, D.D., rector of the Church of the Redeemer at Astoria, Long Island, N. Y. Sarah Shumway, granddaughter of Charles H. Platt and Eliza Ross (above named daughter of Daniel Ross and Elizabeth Gilliland) is also a resident of Essex.
Charlotte Gilliland, another daughter of William Gilliland, was married about 1786 to Stephen Cuyler. Their son, John Cuyler, married Phoebe Hoffnagle. Of their children now living in the town of Willsborough are John B. Cuyler and Susannah Cuyler, who reside together about two miles south of the village of Willsborough. Other descendants of Stephen Cuyler are living in New York, Philadelphia and Chicago.
Another daughter of William Gilliland, Jane Gilliland, was married to John Bleecker, of Albany, where many of his descendants now reside.
His other child, William Gilliland, settled near Plattsburg, the present residence of his descendants.
The sketch or chart on the next page is a fac-simile of an original map found among the papers of the late General Ross, and forms a comparison of the handwriting and statements, with other early records, deeds and surveys showing the ownership and description of lands in the vicinity at the date of its making; it is identified as the work of Robert A. Heirn, whose history has been elsewhere given in this chapter. It includes a large tract then owned by him, and was made in the year 1786. It is without doubt the oldest sketch in existence showing the location of farming lands and highways in Essex county, just after the Revolution.
Part of William Gilliland Tract
The following is a statement showing the present owners of the tracts named in the map, or of tracts included in or including said tracts, furnished by Mr. Anthony J. B. Ross, of Essex:
OLD MAP. PRESENT OWNERS.
Gilliland Block-house farm James B. Ross.
Higgins David S. Hayward.
Ross Northerly part, including the
house, designated on map William R. Derby.
Southerly part Belden Noble.
Easterly part Essex Village.
Gilliland Easterly part Essex Village.
Central part Farm of A. J. B. Ross & Sisters.
Westeriy part Adam K. Stafford & M. McFarland.
Heath Easterly part Village of Essex.
Westerly part Adam K. Stafford.
Northerly part Ezra K. Parkhill.
Southerly part Henry H. Noble.
Hoffnagle, 100 acres, (No. 4) Henry H. Noble.
Heath lot, 100 acres, Henry H. Noble.
200 acres, (next south) Northerly part Roswell C. Waite.
200 acres, Southerly part Samuel D. Tuttle.
Botts, Samuel D. Tuttle.
Hoffnagle, 100 acres, (No. 3) Stephen D. Derby.
Jewett, 100 acres, Stephen D. Derby.
W. Low lot, 50 acres, Stephen D. Derby.
Hally’s lot, 50 acres, Stephen D. Derby.
Hoffnagle lot, 160 acres, (No. 1) John Burt.
Havens lot, Wesley G. Lyon.
The lot obtained of Bolts, 125 acres, Westerly part Joseph W. Cross.
The lot I live on, 110 acres Easterly part, Wesley G. Lyon.
Anthony J. B. Ross has, in his custody a paper in the handwriting of General Henry H. Ross, containing valuable historical memoranda relating to the town of Essex. It was written about 1840. It states that the first settlers were from Duchess county, and numbered Daniel Ross, Isaac Sheldon, Thomas Pray, and Abram Reynolds. Shortly afterward Amos and Benjamin Stafford came from Scituate, Rhode Island. The first school in the town was kept by Mrs. Erasmus Towner. The first male teacher was Enoch F. Henry, who taught in 1789. The first tavern was built by William Ring in 1786. The first grist-mill was erected in 1810, at Boquet, by William D. Ross. About the same time and at the same place he built a rolling and slitting-mill and nail factory. The first store was built and conducted in the village of Essex in 1784 by Daniel Ross, who about the same year built a saw-mill at Boquet and a grist-mill at Willsborough. The first regular religious service was initiated by Henry Boynham,an English Episcopalian, in 1800. Delevan Delance, a resident of Essex, was one of the earliest sheriffs of the county. Reuben Whallon, of Whallonsburgh, held the office of first judge of the old Court of Common Pleas. The first law office in the towns of Essex and Wilisborough was built of stone about midway between the two villages about 1800 by Judge Martin Aiken. It is now a tenement house on the farm of Benjamin Fairchild.
Other pioneers of Essex were Daniel Murray, Henry Van Ormand, Dr. Colborn Clemens (the first physician), David and Abner Reynolds, Nehemiah Payn James Eldrich, Thomas Stafford, E. Eggleston, and Richard Eggleston.
Soon after the close of the Revolution, and before the inhabitants of the town had settled into the habitual repose of continued peace, a block-house was constructed about three-fourths of a mile north of the village of Essex on the farm now owned by James B. Ross (now called Faulderwood). It was an pretentious structure built of logs, and evidently intended rather as a protection against the unbridled ferocity of Indian hatred, than against the assaults of civilized enemies. In 1799 upon the formation of the county it was converted into a court-house, and used as such until, under the act of 1807, the county buildings were erected at Elizabethtown. There is considerable uncertainty about the date of the construction of this building. Mr. Watson in his valuable history has united with French’s Gazetteer in placing the date as late as 1797. But, as will be seen by reference, it is indicated in the Heirn chart made in 1786 and printed in these pages. Captain Martin Eggleston thinks it was erected in 1775, but this seems improbable from the slight possibility that it could survive the devastations of the war, and the fact that there was probably no need of a block-house here at so early a date. The most probable theory, therefore, seems to be that it was built soon after the War of the Revolution.
Resuming the narrative of early settlement it may be stated that General Ransom Noble came to Essex in about 1800 and engaged successfully in the tannery, lumber, and iron business. His sons, H. and B. Noble, succeeded him in business. Henry Noble, another son, now deceased, settled at Elizabethtown where his family now reside. Charles Noble, also a son, formerly resided in New York city. The family of Harmon Noble, deceased, now live in Essex, and the family of Belden Noble, are at Washington, D. C. Henry Harmon Noble, son of Harmon Noble, and the only male representative of the family at Essex, resides in the house formerly occupied by his father, and in earlier days by General Noble himself. The place is appropriately called “Sunnyside.” (See biographic sketches in later pages.)
Amos and David Stafford occupied two lots on Whallon’s bay immediately after the close of the Revolution. In 1792 Judge Charles Hatch moved into that part of Essex known as Brookfieid, where he remained until 1804. He then went to Westport. Mr. Watson states that the removal of his family from Brookfield to Westport (on North West bay), a distance of eight miles, occupied two days, and required the labor of four men to open a roadway for the wagon.
Such was the general condition of the neighborhood previous to the beginfling of the present century. The villages and settlements increased gradually in population and business activity. Lumbering was carried on extensively, the iron industry was a bud of great promise; taverns owned by men who were endowed with generous licenses to engage in the traffic of liquors grew abundant, and potash factories flourished with an ease that made them seem indigenous. Commerce on Lake Champlain did not reach its greatest activity for a number of years, but something of its future began to be manifest, and the village of Essex, the most thriving of the three which exchanged courtesies in the town of Essex, sprang into considerable prominence as a commercial and ship-building center.
Before the War of 1812 the craft that sailed the lake were very small, there being none, according to the statement of Captain Martin Eggleston, that would carry more than forty or fifty tons. Several large sloops were built in Essex in 1811 and 1812, and, indeed, the principal boat-building on this side of the lake was done here. Richard Eggleston built in 1810 the first sloop that ever sailed the waters of these northern lakes. She was built for William D. Ross, who named her the Euretta. Soon after, when the clouds of approaching war hung threateningly over the whole country, larger craft were required, and Richard Eggleston built eight or ten vessels of more than one hundred and fifty tons burden. He undoubtedly constructed more than a hundred freight vessels in all. In 1811 and 1812 he commenced building two sloops, The President and The Richard, the former for John Boynton, of Plattsburg, and the latter for Gideon King, of Burlington, who, among others, had obtained letters of marque and reprisal, and designed using the sloops for privateering purposes. Before the craft were finished news arrived that the British fleet was coming to bombard Fort Cassin on Otter creek, across the lake. The sloops were hastily caulked, launched, taken to Barn Rock on the south side of Split Rock Point, put in the bay and completely concealed beneath huge masses of brush. In about two weeks the British bombarded Fort Cassin in order to weaken the strength of the navy yard at Vergennes, but without success. After the bombardment the British anchored in a line in front of Essex, furled their top-sails, threw out their guns towards the village and made every preparation to fire. The British commander came in towards shore and wanted to know if the citizens desired a truce. In response to a signal from General Henry H. Ross they came ashore, and a parley was held. The Englishmen spied upon the shore the spars which had been prepared for the sloops, and demanded information concerning the whereabouts of the vessels. He was told they were at Whitehall, whereupon he ordered his men to cut the spars to pieces. He immediately retracted his order, however, with the observation that the Revolutionists “could easily get more.” The sloops were afterwards finished and passed through exciting vicissitudes, under the names of the Growler and the Eagle. They were taken by the British and recaptured at Plattsburg.
This was not the only visit paid to the site of Essex village by British enemies. In the War of the Revolution the fleeing British, retreating from Ticonderoga after the defeat of Burgoyne, were intercepted here by a party of “Green Mountain Boys” under Ebenezer Allen, who captured fifty prisoners and all their military stores.
The lumber markets in those days, it will be remembered, were Montreal and Quebec. Enormous quantities of square timber and sawed lumber were shipped there from all points along Lake Champlain. A number of sloops were manufactured to carry lumber south after the completion of the canal to Troy. Between 1825 and 1836 there were probably one hundred and twentyfive sloops sailing the lake. Richard Eggleston also built two hundred and fifty row galleys or bateaux for the American fleet on the lake. His son, Captain Martin Eggleston, who was born at Essex in 1806, sailed on the lake from 1821 to 1863.
As early as 1810 there were three asheries in the territory now composing the town of Essex. One near Whallon’s bay, owned by Judge Heirn, one about six miles west of the village of Essex, owned by Daniel Ross, and one in the village of Essex, owned by William D. Ross. It is estimated that these three asheries manufactured from two hundred to three hundred tons of potash annually. General Ransom Noble owned and conducted a tannery in Essex as early as 1800, and was extensively engaged in the lumber and iron business. About 1810 there were three taverns in the village of Essex, kept by Amos Anson, Nathan Nichols and Isaac Drew. There were seven outside the village, as follows: one at Whallon’s bay, kept by a Mr. Miller; one at Whallonsburgh, kept by Sawyer Carter; one kept by Benjamin Stafford in the west part of the town; one on the same road toward Westport from Stafford, kept by John Burt; one six miles west of the village of Essex kept by Jesse Reynolds, near the potash factory of Daniel Ross; one kept by N. Wallace, about a mile west of the village, and one at Boqüet. Shortly after 1810 General Wright kept the hotel now run by J. C. Baldwin.
William D. Ross had a distillery just north of Essex before 1820, which was probably the only one in the town.
Farming remained at a low ebb until as late as 1830, when the lumber trade began to decline. The western parts of the town were cultivated first, although the most fruitful soil lies along the shore of the lake.
Town Officers, etc. – The records of this town are not in existence until after the year 1820, as far as we have been able to ascertain, which prevents the publication of the names of the first officers. We have, however, obtained the names of the successive supervisors after and including the year 1818. They are as follows: 1818-19, Reuben Whallon; 1820-21, Ralph Hascall; 1822 to 1824 inclusive, William Smith; 1825-26, Ransom Noble; 1827 to 1829 inclusive, Reuben Whallon; 1830-31, John Gould; 1832, Richard Eggleston; 1833 to 1835 inclusive, Henry H. Ross; 1836-37, William D. Ross; 1838-39, Abel Baldwin; 1840, Henry H. Ross; 1841-42, Samuel Shumway; 1843-44., Belden Noble; 1845-46, Daniel North; 1847-48, Michael H. Stower; 1849-50, Edward S. Shumway; 1851-52, Palmer E. Havens; 1853-54, William D. Ross, 2d; 1855-56, Eli W. Rogers; 1857-58, James Stafford; 1859-60, Phillip S. Baldwin; 1861-62, Belden Noble; 1863 to 1865 inclusive, John Hoskins; 1866 to 1868 inclusive, John Ross; 1869-70, George W. Palmer; 1871, Jonathan Mather; 1872, Buel D. Bacon; 1873-74, Jonathan Mather; 1875, Andrew J. Tucker; 1876 to 1878 inclusive, Walter D. Palmer; 1879, W. H. Stower; 1880 to 1883 inclusive, Charles W. Tucker; 1884 to present time, Anthony J. B. Ross.
Population of Town.- 1850, 2,351; 2,115; 1860, 1,633; 1865, 1,501; 1870, 1,600; 1875, 1,867; 1880, 1,462.
The first muster roll from the county at the outbreak of the Rebellion was taken in the town of Essex. Captain William D: Ross, eldest son of General Henry H. Ross, took about forty men from the town early in May, 1861, and had them incorporated with the Anderson Zouaves, under Colonel Riker at New York city. The following is a list of the volunteers as named in said roll, most of whom he commanded as lieutenant and captain. The roll is dated May 2d, 1861: William D. Ross, Belden R. Parkill, James Phillips, Charles Hoffnagle, Edmund Atherton, Albert Green, John Maloy, Joseph Hall, William E. Pratt, Horace A. Pratt, John Gordon, Franklin J. West, Samuel F. West, Henry H. Tucker, Andrew Todd, Napoleon Durant, Joseph Martin, Friend A. Smith, Charles P. Saywood, Henry W. Baldwin, George Tucker, James Stone, John Reed, Peter Lowe, Ira P. Knapp, Nathan W. Lincoln, E. Story, John Damady, Horace Smith, Franklin Flurry, Edwin Clemmons, F. A. Brown, George Chase, Artemas Woodruff, Daniel Cross. With a few exceptions the above names represent the men who left the town in May, 1861, to take an active part in the great struggle. The brave and gallant captain of this company, William D. Ross, did not live to see the cause, for which he was willing to sacrifice his life, victorious. On the 25th day of October, 1861, while in the line of his duty, the railroad track near Washington, he was struck and killed by a passing train. He was buried with military honors at Washton, where his remains rested until his death was made known to his friends in Essex, when he was brought home and buried in the family vault. At the time of his death he was thirty. one years of age, and had been in the practice of law in Essex for about eight years. For further military details see the chapter devoted to that subject.
MUNICIPAL HISTORY.
The town of Essex contains three villages, Essex, Whallonsburgh, and Boquet. The village of Essex, the largest and oldest of the three, is situated on the shore of the lake in the northeastern corner of the town. As stated in the earlier part of this chapter, it was at one time one of the chief ports on the lake, and until after 1840 was an important ship-building center. Iron was manufactured here extensively at one time, but these industries have died and have been replaced by others.
Mercantile. – As early as 1815 William D. Ross, Ransom Noble, and John Gould were store-keepers here. How long they continued is not known, but they had been succeeded by others years before the oldest merchant now in the village began business here.
The merchant of longest standing in the village is William R. Derby, who has traded here since September, 1854. At that time he bought out the general store of Wesley G. Lyon, who had been a general merchant in the place about eight years preceding. Mr. Derby has occupied his present building about eight years. Andrew J. Tucker has sold general merchandise in this village since 1861. He was in partnership with Welsey G. Lyon until 1864, when that relation was dissolved and a new partnership established between Mr. Tucker and D. E. Field. This firm was not separated until 1880. Mr. Tucker has been in the building he now uses from the start, with the exception of the six years between 1863 and 1870. He carries a stock estimated at $8,000. Buel D. Bacon opened a hardware store in Essex in the fall of 1868. He then purchased the stock and good will of Theodore Calkins, who had conducted the business for several years previous. Mr. Bacon has been in his present building since 1881. In 1873 S. D. Derby started a general store in company with his brother, W. R. Derby, and remained with him four years. Since 1877 he has been alone. He carries a stock of about $15,000.
W. J. Hoskins commenced dealing in furniture about 1875. In July, 1884, his brother, E. W. Hoskins, entered into partnership with him. W. J. Hoskins died in January, 1885, since which time his brother has conducted the business alone. E. H. & C. H. Stafford (brothers) began to keep a general store here in 1882, being successors to W. G. Lyon, who had conducted a like business in the same building since 1868.
George D. Anson established a store in the building now occupied by him in 188o. It is the same building which H. D. Edwards had used as a store years ago, but it had been vacant for some time when Mr. Anson came into it. Ira C. Stafford, a jeweler, also has a jewelry and music store in the village. W. W. Wilson has had a feed store here since November, 1884. Mosier Ferguson has had a shoe-shop in this village since 1875, and Charles Michon since 1878. R. Fortune, tailor, has been engaged in his present occupation here since 1842. For the first twenty years he occupied the house now used as the Congregational parsonage. He came into the building he now occupies in 1867.
Manufactures. – The Essex Horse Nail Company (Limited) was incorporated in June, 1879. There were originally, and are now, about fifty shareholders in the company. The first officers were: President, Palmer E. Havens; vice president, Alpheus A. Morse; secretary, Walter D. Palmer; treasurer, William R. Derby; superintendent, James Mills. Directors besides the officers above named: Stephen D. Derby, Wesley G. Lyon, Anthony J. B. Ross, Seth Crosman, Charles A. Martin, Lyman Barton, John N. Oliver, James H. Howe.
The company purchased the ground and buildings of Lyon & Palmer, who had up to that time, 1879, used them for the manufacture of sashes and blinds. One of the buildings was remodeled into the present machine-shop, and another converted into the store-house. The office and other buildings were erected anew. The total cost of the building and remodeling was about $20,000, and of machinery and fixtures about $25,000. The works and office are situated on the shore of the lake. where the company own a wharf for their own convenience. It affords those interested in lake traffic the benefits of competition between this wharf and three others in the same village. The company employ, when running in full force, sixty or seventy hands. The president of the company now is Hon. Palmer E. Havens; the vice president is D. F. Payne; secretary and treasurer, W. D. Palmer; superintendent, C. W. Woodford. Mr. Woodford has been superintendent since May, 1880. The capital stock of the company is $80,000, paid up. (See biography of C. W. Woodford herein.)
The old sash factory of Lyon & Palmer, mentioned above, stood on ground which formed originally the ship-yard of Hoskins, Ross & Co., the firm being composed of John Hoskins, John Ross and Wesley J. Hoskins. Subsequently James B. Ross became interested in the concern, the firm title was changed to The Essex Manufacturing Company, and the business to the manufacture of sashes and blinds. Lyon & Palmer bought them out in 1877. The old shipbuilding business was killed by the construction and opening of railroads on both sides of the lake.
Hotels. – Essex village has two hotels. The oldest one, that now kept by J. C. Baldwin, was erected and kept by General Wright before the beginning of the present century. Some parts of it are supposed to be a hundred years old. It is a fairly well-preserved centenarian. General Wright conducted the hotel business therein until about 1810. The present proprietor has been here since May 1st, 1874. He was preceded by Eli Farnsworth. Some years before the beginning of the Civil War, Charles G. Fancher came into possession, and was followed successively by William Brainard, who left in 1861, Martin Eggleston, Edward Burt, Webster W. Royce, Parker Torrance, Sidney Carr, Eli Farnsworth and J. C. Baldwin.
North’s Hotel was built by Delavan Delance about the year 1830 for a private dwelling house. Afterwards Noble Clemmons remodeled it into a hotel and kept it until about 1850. The present proprietor, De Lloyd W. North, took possession in 1882. Before that it was vacant for a time, the last proprietor before the vacancy being Harry Palmer. William Brandeau preceded him, his term beginning May, 1874. Before Brandeau was Eli Farnsworth; prior to Farnsworth’s occupancy the house lay idle for years, probably since 1864 or ’65. In 1861 William Brainard came in and remained three or four years.
The Professions.- Hon. Palmer E. Havens began the practice of law in the village of Essex in 1841. He was admitted at Plattsburg after passing a period of study in the office of General Henry H. Ross. He has ably represented his county and district in the Legislature as Assemblyman and Senator. (See biography.)
FIRST NAME
LAST NAME
James B. Ross, now of Denver, Col., was admitted in 1854, and practiced in Detroit until 1859. From there he removed to Houghton, Mich., where he stayed nine years as the attorney for the copper mining companies of Michigan. He came to Essex in 1868. In 1874 his brother, Anthony J. B. Ross, who practices here now, went in with him. They practiced together under the firm style of Ross & Ross until 1882, when James B. Ross moved to Denver. During his residence in Essex, James B. Ross was one of the wardens of St. John’s Church. He was also largely interested in the business pursuits of the town. Anthony J. B. Ross graduated at Hobart College, Geneva, N. Y., in 1866, and was admitted to practice at Albany in 1874 after studying the requisite period with the firm of Hand, Hale, Swartz & Fairchild, of Albany. He is the present supervisor of the town. The law-office now occupied by Mr. Ross was built (of stone) by General Henry H. Ross in 1812.
Edwin R. Chase, M.D., aged fifty-seven years, came to Essex in 1858. He received his professional education in the Albany Medical College.
Dr. Edward B. Atkins, aged thirty-six years, was graduated from the Albany Medical College in 1874, and came to Essex in May, i88o. In 1877 he received the Adeundem Degree from the University of New York city.
Union School. – The Essex Union School was formed April 12th, 1866. The first trustees were Wesley G. Lyon, E. R. Eaton, and Robert Fortune, one year; Ezra Parkhill, E. R. Chase, M.D., and R. Morse, two years; Palmer E. Havens, John Hoskins, and John Ross, three years. The office of first clerk and librarian devolved upon Wesley G. Lyon E. R Brougham was the first principal. Under the new regime the school remained for a short time in the old brick house which now stands about ten rods south of the one at present occupied. The trustees very soon secured an old dwelling house, formerly owned and occupied by General Ransom Noble, and moved it on to the school lot. It was denominated the Academy building. Finding it unfit for the purposes to which it had been converted, the board in 1867 erected the present structure at a cost not exceeding $5,000. The primary department has been since added. The present trustees of the school are as follows : – Committee on teachers: Wesley G. Lyon, W. J. Hoskins (since election deceased), William H. Stower. Committee on finance: Walter D. Palmer, Dwight E. Field, Henry H. Noble; committee on buildings, etc., H. W. Parkhill, Myron Eggleston, and George Anson. The present clerk of the board, H. W. Parkhill, has officiated continuously since 1875. There are three teachers in constant employment, F. M. Hickok being at present the principal. The average attendance of the school is about one hundred and thirtyeight.
Churches. – The most ancient church organization now existing in the village of Essex is undoubtedly the Congregational Church, though it cannot date its origin back of the period of religious services held by the Episcopalian, Henry Boynham, mentioned in the memoranda of Henry H. Ross.
Presbyterian Church. – This church was organized on the 3d day of December, 18 15, by the Rev. Cyrus Comstock, of the Berkshire and Columbia Missionary Society. The records show the first members to have been Ira Manley, Reuben Whallon, Ralph Hascall, Mary Hascall, Theodosia Gould, Annis Wallis, Asa Frisbie, Mrs. Fairchild, Mrs. Higby, Mrs. Throop, Chloe Higby. Among the members who were soon after added to the society were Fanny Little, Julia Lynde, Betsey Earle, Ellen Gilbert, Mrs. Boynton, Dr. Abel P. Mead, Dr. Samuel Shumway, Hannah Shumway, Phoebe Eggleston, Eliza Whallon, Daniel Lynde.
The first preaching, in addition to that of the Rev. Mr. Comstock, was by Rev. Asa Messer. About the year 1823 Ira Manley preached occasionally. At this time meetings were held in the brick school-house in Essex and in the school-house near Wilisborough Falls. It was a Congregational Church until December, 1830, when the members from Essex adopted the ecclesiastical government of the Presbyterian Church. Previous to this time the society embraced the towns of Essex and Wilisborough; but when the Essex congregation changed to the Presbyterian government, the two towns separated their church interests and the Wilisborough congregation continued under the original form of worship. Following are the names of the elders after the change: James S. Whallon, Abiel P. Mead, Asa Frisbie, Colonel William Smith. The first church building was erected in the year 1818. The movement which resulted in the building of the church was preceded by the circulation of the following subscription paper : – “We, the subscribers, do hereby associate ourselves into a society for building a meeting house, or a place of public worship, in the town of Essex, on or near the site of the old school-house which was burned, on the hill in the rear of the dwelling house of Ezra Parkhill. And we do severally agree to pay to a committee of three persons the several sums respectively annexed to our names for the purpose aforesaid, which said sums shall be paid in four equal quarterly installments, in cattle, grain or iron, to wit: The one-fourth part of which sums to be paid by the first day of May next; the remaining three installments by the first days of August, November and February next thereafter, in cattle, grain or iron, or in material acceptable to said committee, who are to be chosen and elected by the said subscribers at a meeting to be held at the house of Delevan Delance in Essex, on the first Monday in December next. And the pews or other property of the said meeting house and the ground appropriated for the same shall be disposed of according to the resolutions of the said subscribers at a subsequent meeting; shall be at such time and place as shall be appropriated by the first meeting aforesaid. Dated Essex, November 10th, 1817. “Henry H. Ross, $400 including an acre of land at $125; W. D. Ross, $300; Ransom G. Hatch, $250; Ralph Hascall, $150; John Gould, $100; (name illegible) $100; D. Delance, $50; D. B. McNeil, $75; Charles McNeil, $5 (cash); Luther Adgate, $50; Ezra Parkhill, $50; Charles B. Prindle, $50; Luther Prose, $40; John Earl, $25; Jonathan Little, $75; James M. Hayes, $20; Sawyer Carter, $25 ; Simeon Pangburn, $5; H. A. Hawley, $25; Ezra Coats, jr., $5 (a gratuity); David Delance, $4; Willard Church, $5; Asahel Row, $4; J. G. Cornell, $5; D. W. Sturtevant, $5; David Jacobs, $5; Joshua Martin, $50; Russell Vaughn, $5; Dean Delance, $6; Samuel C. Taylor, $25; Elijah Carter, $15; John Hoffnafle, $50 (but if preparations are making for building a meeting-house in Wilisborough, before the frame of Essex meeting-house is raised, then $25 to be deducted;) Hine Clemons, $50; Solomon Cook, $25; William Braman, $10; Thomas Edwards $10; Phineas Haskins, $5; Silas C. Perry, %5; These names were all signed with a wafer and seal numbered consecutively.
The church erected in 1818 was used until 1821, when a supplemental subscription paper was issued to raise funds to complete the building. In this subscription paper appears the name of H. A. Hawley for “$2 towards painting, and $3 towards interior finishing, when the same shall be half done.” The present church was erected in 1853 at a cost of about $10,000. The corner stone was laid December 13th, 1853, the services being conducted by Rev. J. T. Willet. The value of the church property, including the parsonage, is about $10,000.
Following are the names of the successive pastors who have served the church since 1827: 1827-30, Rev. Vernon D. Taylor; 1831-32, Rev. J. B. Baldwin; 1832 to 1844, Rev. Joel Fisk; 1844 to 1847, Rev. A. Bronson; for a short time after 1847, Rev. Moses Chase officiated; 1850-51, Rev. J. G. Randall; 1852 to 1865, Rev. J. T. Willet; 1865 to 1882, Rev. C. N. Wilder; 1882-83, Rev. Thornton Mills; present pastor, Augustus Frederick. The present church officers are as follows: Trustees, Henry H. Noble, C. W. Tucker, Thomas Maguire, William H. Stower, E. R. Chase, M.D., C. H. Stafford, William R. Derby, D. E. Field, A. A. Morse. Elders, A. A. Morse, B. F. Lee, Edwin R. Chase, M.D., O. C. Morse, E. P. Morse, C. H. Stafford, W. E. Atherton. Deacon, Asa Hale. The membership is one hundred and thirty-one.
There has been a Sunday-school connected with the church from about the beginning of the organization. A. A. Morse has held the office of superintendent for more than twenty years. Membership is ninety.
Methodist Episcopal Church. – This church was organized January 12th, 1835, the original trustees being as follows: First class, William D. Ross, John Gould, Hine Clemons; second class, Noble Clemons, Lewis Ladd; third class, Charles C. Cheney, Asa Derby. The present church edifice was begun soon after the organization, but it was several years before it was finished. In 1852 the Wilisborough people, who had been associated with the church during the first seventeen years of its life, effected a separation. The ministerial succession in the church has been as follows: Lewis Potter and John Graves and John Haslan; Arunah Lyon and Benjamin Cox; Aaron Hall and O. J. Squires; J. D. White and Benjamin Pomeroy; J. D. Burnham and A. Garvin; S. Coleman and Henry Taylor; J. D. White and ____ ; J. D. Burnham and M. B. Wood; William Arner and ____ ; David Osgood and O. J. Squires; John Graves and J. D. Wescott; Josiah Chamberlain and D. H. Loveland; William Arner and ____ ; in 1852 W. H. Meeker; followed by Andrew McGilton, Matthias Ludham, Joel Eaton, Joseph Cope, J. M. Puffer, George W. Brown, D. N. Lewis, John Vrooman, J. D. White, M. N. Curry, J. W. Thompson, C. H. Richmond, W. P. Rulison, George H. Robbins, 1876-79; E. J. Guernsey, 1879-82; J. M. Edgerton, 1882-85; and the present pastor, Elam Marsh, who came in the spring of 1885.
The church building was extensively improved in 1876 and again in 1884, the last time at a cost of about $1,000.
The present officers of the church are as follows: Stewards, W. H. Adsit, (district steward); 0. Parker, B. D. Bacon, M. Sibly, Z. Clark, G. D. Anson, C. E. Hoskins, E. W. Hoskins, L. L. Calkins, recording steward. Leaders, A. E. Winslow, W. D. Palmer, D. S. Whallon. Trustees, John Hoskins, chairman, W. G. Lyon, B. D. Bacon, W. H. Adsit, M. E. Eggleston, clerk. Sunday-school superintendents B. D. Bacon and Mrs. F. J. Avery.
The Baptist Church of Essex village was an offshoot of the Essex church at Brookfield, and was organized in 1838, with a membership of eighteen. Elders Hodges and Walden of Elizabethtown supplied the pulpit the first three years and increased the membership to one hundred and five. The church was begun in 1840 and completed in 1842. Fifteen ministers have officiated, viz.: Revs. C. W. Hodges, J. H. Walden, Lyman Smith, Isaac Waldron, Elias Huriburt, C. H. Pierson, K. Smith, C. W. Walker, E. A. Wyman, George E. Henderson, Calvin Fisher, Luman Kinney, Stephen Wright, I. E. Howd, S. W. Nichols, J. R. Taylor, A. H. Stock. Rev. A. H. Stock left in April, 1884, since which time the church has been without a pastor. The present deacons are Philip S. Baldwin and Aiken E. Sheldon, who also perform the duties of church trustees. Albert Baldwin is the present church clerk.
St. John’s Church, Essex, (Episcopal,). – The church was organized March 21st, 1853, the missionary in charge being Rev. F. C. Putnam. The persons present at the first meeting were, Rev. F. C. Putnam, Henry H. Ross, William H. Low, Henry N. Gould, Ezra Parkhill, H. A. Palmer, Elihu Gilbert, Seth Crossman, Peter Chamberlain, William Buch, Henry D. Edwards, Henry Barker, Charles A. Martin, William E. Sayward, Asa P. Hammond, and George E. Atwater.
The organization of this church was mainly due to the efforts and influence of Mrs. Henry H. Ross, and her daughter, Susannah M. Ross, now Mrs. Cooper. The first officers were as follows: Henry H. Ross, senior warden; Asa P. Hammond, junior warden. Vestrymen, Henry N. Gould, William H. Low, Henry W. Putnam, Ezra Parkhill, Seth Crossman, Elihu Gilbert, George E. Atwater, Charles A. Martin.
From 1853 to 1877 services were held in a building erected by Henry H. Ross about 1835 for a school-house on the lot where the present church edifice stands, and by him devoted to the uses of the church during those years. In 1877 the church purchased the building and lot, removed the old building to its present site and rebuilt it in its present form, from designs by the Rev. John Henry Hopkins, D.D. In the same year the rectory was built on the same lot. The church is a frame building supported by buttresses on the east side. with a wing for the organ chamber and vestry-room, and a bell cot at the north end. It contains a marble altar constructed from stone found in the town. The base is of blue limestone, sanded, the sides and top of dolomite cut from a boulder found in the vicinity, which presents a variegated surface resembling mosaic work. It is supported at the sides by pillars of black marble (blue limestone polished), and surmounted by a super-altar of the same marble and a cross of dolomite which, as well as the front of the altar, is inlaid with porphyry and marbles of different colors. It was made from designs by Dr. Hopkins and was his gift to the church. The church also contains a tablet to the memory of Henry H. Ross, the founder of the parish, and another to the memory of the Rev J N. Fairbanks, the third rector of the parish, both being erected by the vestry.
The following have officiated as rectors of this church: 1853-54, Rev. Fernando C. Putnam; 1855-56, Rev. Edmund D. Cooper; 1857-60, Rev. J. N. Fairbanks; 1862-65, Rev. Edmund D. Cooper; 1865-66, Rev. Charles Husband; 1867-68, Charles C. Fiske; 1868-69, Elias Weil; 1869-70, Rev. John Henry Hopkins, jr., D.D.,; 1871-72, Rev. James E. Hall; 1873-76, Rev. J .W. McIlwaine 1878-83, Rev. E. L. Toy; 1884, Rev. Norman Irish, D.D., who is the present pastor.
The present number of communicants is ninety. The officers are: Stephen D. Derby, senior warden; Andrew J. Tucker, junior warden; A. J. B. Ross, Robert Fortune, Moses Knowlton, H. E. Woodford, Edward W. Richardson, Charles. W. Woodford, Edward B. Atkins, M. D., vestrymen.
A Sunday-school was organized at the same time with the church; the rectors have been superintendents.
St. Joseph’s church (Roman Catholic.) – This church was organized in 1872. The first trustees were Michael McFarland and Terence McFarland.. First priest, Rev. James Shields. The church building was begun in 1872 and finished in the next year, at a cost of about $9,000. Following are the names of the successive priests who have served the church: Rev. John Redington, Rev. John H. Sullivan, Rev. Mr. Devlin, M. A. Holihan, the present priest. The present membership comprises about one hundred families. The trustees are Terence McFarland and Victor Fuller. A Sunday-school has been conducted since the organization of the church, with the priest as superintendent.
Freemasonry. – Essex lodge No. 152 (the first in the county), was chartered February 14th, 1807. Its records are lost but it seems to have been in existence as late as 1822. The present Masonic lodge of Essex (Iroquois lodge, No. 715), was chartered June 7th, 1862. Its original membership numbered about fifty. The first officers were: James B. Ross, W. M.; Andrew J. Tucker, sen. warden; George Alexander, junior warden. The present officers are as follows: Charles J. Merriam, W. M.; W. M. French, senior warden; 0. E. Hayes, junior warden; John B. Cuyler, senior deacon; G. F. Eggleston, junior deacon; Dwight E. Field, secretary; A. J. Tucker, treasurer; G. A. Calkins, senior master of ceremonies; David S. Hayward, junior master of ceremonies; H. J. Hinkley, tiler. Lodge meetings are held in the store building in which Stafford Brothers keep store.
In August, 1869, a chapter (Split Rock chapter, Number 243), containing a membership of twenty-five, was organized. The first high priest was John Ross. William Hoskins held the office of king; Franklin D. Bennett, of scribe; Ambrose Brunell, of captain of the host; and Joshua Bennett, of principal sojourner. The present officers are: D. E. Field, H. P.; D. S. Hayward K.; H. S. Stower, S.; A. J. Tucker, C. of H.; Anthony J. B. Ross, P. S.; John B. Cuyler, R. A C. (royal arch captain); J. W. Chamberlain, M. 3d V. (master of the third veil); George Alexander, M. 2d. V.; Asa Frisbie, M. 1st. V.; H. J. Hinkley, tiler.
Postmasters. – The first postmaster of which any record can be found is Judge John Gould, who officiated from a date antecedent to 1818 until about 1838. He was succeeded by Dr. E. P. Mead, who served his country in the capacity of mail distributor four or five years, and was in turn superseded by Charles J. Fancher. He gave place to Robert Fortune about six years after he had taken the oath of office. By another presidential transformation Charles G. Fancher became successor to Mr. Fortune. The latter was re-instated after a short period, and in a few years again gave place to Mr. Fancher. In about 1875 Walter D. Palmer was appointed and retained the office until the spring of 1885, when E. W. Hoskins, the present incumbent assumed the duties of the office.
Boquet. – This is a small hamlet situated about three miles to the southwest of the village of Essex, on the Boquet river. It was formerly a flourishing manufacturing community. The first manufacturing efforts of civilized man in this village were put forth in 1810, when William D. Ross erected a grist, mill on the bank of the river, and about the same time built quite an extensive rolling and slitting-mill and nail factory. As early as 1784, however, Daniel Ross conducted a general store here for the accommodation of the early settlers who had established themselves in scattered families along the river side. There must have been, too, at that early date, some lumbering done about the site of Boquet, for Daniel Ross also ran a saw-mill here in 1785. It was probably engaged entirely in supplying the home demand. After 1810 the place began to assume considerable local importance. Business did not die out there for many years. Henry H. Ross, in his memoranda before mentioned, written about 1840, states that in Boquet there was then “a large mill for the manufacture of rolled iron and nails, a grist-mill, etc.” There has never been and is not now a post-office here. In 1828 a district school-house was built of stone and in octagonal shape. It still serves the original purpose of. its erection. In 1855 an Episcopal chapel was built on the hill in the south part of the village, but was purchased by the Baptist and Presbyterian element of the community in 1880, and is now used as a union church. Brookfield and Essex clergymen supply the pulpit. Little remains of the business activities of ancient days. The old dam has been worn away rather than washed away, and the mills are the more silent in that they arouse an idea of former thrift and industry. The only business now conducted in the old village is that of C. W. & W. A. Tucker, dealers in produce and general merchandise. They started a hay barn about eight years ago, and soon after built the store near the railroad. They still press hay and dispense merchandise to the inhabitants of Boquet and vicinity.
Brookfield is a farming settlement in the west part of the town, which has one store, that kept by James Reynolds for the past three years. There is also at Brookfield one of the oldest Baptist Churches in the county. About the beginning of the present century they held services in an old log building, and afterwards in a barn, until their church edifice was completed (before 1809). In 1809 Rev. Solomon Brown, who founded the churches of Keeseville, Elizabethtown, Jay and Westport, is named as a delegate from the Essex Church (at Brookfield) to the association held at Elizabethtown. The church then had eleven members. Sixteen pastors have presided over her ecclesiastical councils: Solomon Brown, Jeremiah H. Dwyer, J. B. Wilkins, E. Goodspeed, E. P. Adams, J. S. McColum, Charles Berry, Elias Huriburt, C. Fisher, E. W. Allen, W. Gussman, W. S. Bush, S. W. Nichols, J. R. Taylor, E. M. Lynch, W. H. Stock. Her largest membership was attained in 1837, when it numbered one hundred and forty-three. Her present membership is about fortyeight. Judge Charles Hatch’s’ residence here from 1792 to 1804 has been mentioned in a previous page.
Whallonsburgh.- Next in size to Essex, though last in the date of its existence as a village, is Whallonsburgh. R. A. Ferguson, who came to the place in 1870 with his father, John Ferguson, describes it as being then an unbroken forest. His father, a carpenter, struck the first blow to clear the land and build the first dwellings and factories of the new settlement. He came from Washington county, N. Y., in the service of Reuben Whallon, who had come from the same vicinity about two years before. Mr. Ferguson built a saw-mill, just in the rear of the present site of William F. Blinn’s store, and a clothing factory near where the sash factory now is. The place grew very gradually; lumbering constituted the principal business of the inhabitants. A. Hale soon built a grist-mill on the hill in the western part of the village, and was soon followed by William Smith and James S. Whallon, who erected a grist-mill which now forms the west end of the sash factory. Smith & Whallon, not being contented with their milling profits, built a plaster factory adjoining the grist-mill. This business throve mightily, teams frequeatly coming from Vermont for loads of plaster. In 1840 a fine forge existed here, built by the proprietor, James S. Whallon. The clothing works and one grist-mill were still running. William Smith, probably the first postmaster, had received his appointment prior to 1825. James S. Whallon followed Smith, Lewis Cady followed Whallon, and in about 1860 Eli W. Rogers followed Cady. Mr. Rogers has officiated uninterruptedly from that time to the present. The industries now active in the village may be briefly noticed as follows: In 1881 Edgar Chamberlain and Eugene, his brother, succeeded William H. Richardson in the manufacture of blinds and sashes. The business originated in 1869, Samuel Root, William H. Richardson and V. C. Spencer being the first proprietors. In 1872 Messrs. Root and Spencer withdrew. James S. Whallon built the mill which was formerly used as a carding-mill. The Chamberlain Brothers lease the premises of Samuel Root. They keep about fifteen hands busy and can turn out about seventy doors in a day, and have made as many as 1,500 pairs of blinds in a month.
The grist-mill now running, in Whallonsburgh was built about 1830 by James S. Whallon, soon after the former mill of Smith & Whallon had been damaged beyond repair by a freshet. Jonathan Mather, the present owner, has held the title for a great many years. John R. Mather superintends the running of the mill.
F. J. Avery has been a general merchant here since 1870. He established the business himself. William F. Blinn started a store here in April, 1885. John R. Mather is proprietor of a cabinet shop, and G. J. & J. G. Waiker run an extensive hay barn.
The village boasts a Union Church, which was organized not far from 1830. The present edifice was erected before 1840, James S. Whallon contributing most generously towards its construction. The Presbyterian and Methodist clergymen at Essex preached here. Rev. Joel Fisk first officiated, and Rev. Joseph T. Willet preached here for about thirteen years. They organized a Sabbath-school almost at the beginning.
The present school-house was built in 1851. Miss Mattie Stafford is the present teacher. The district is extensive, and consequently the school always has a large attendance.
Katie Shepard posted this vintage photograph of the steam yacht Kestrel on the Essex blog recently to see if anyone could identify the vessel, the boathouse, the men on the pier, the approximate year, etc.
Greater Adirondack Ghost and Tour Company: Wow, what a great photo. That’s the steam yacht Kestrel, owned by Samuel Keyser. The Keyser family used the Kestrel while summering in Essex and she was a regular sight on the Lake from the 1890s until the late 1930s. This beautiful 19th Century yacht still exists today and I’ve actually had the pleasure of seeing her first hand, she’s a magnificent vessel…
George Davis: You ghosty folks sure are good. Well done. And extra credit since you’ve seen the Kestrel in person, up in the 1,000 Islands, I imagine. Right?
Greater Adirondack Ghost and Tour Company: Thanks! We were visiting Alex Bay this past summer and went out to see Boldt Castle. Admission also covers the Boldt’s boat house over on Wellesley Island which we had never visited before. Sitting in one of the slips inside the boathouse was the Kestrel in all her glory. It took a minute of head scratching and “hmmm…where have I seen this boat before” until it finally clicked. It was a bit of a jaw dropping moment. I had no idea the yacht even still existed, but she’s an amazing survivor.
Kestrel at Boldt Castle Yacht House
While I knew that the Kestrel still existed and was afloat in the Thousand Islands, I was surprised that others were aware of the local connection and even more tickled by the fact the Plattsburgh “ghost folks” had spotted (and identified) the handsome old steam yacht. The following information is published on Boldt Castle’s yacht house web page. It helps illuminate the Kestrel’s lengthy history.
The Kestral was designed by D. Crawford and built by George Lawley at his South Boston shipyard in 1892. Her first owner is not presently known, but the first available written records indicate that she was sold on June 14, 1899 to Samuel Keyser of Baltimore, Maryland. After a succession of owners who lavished money and care on her, she was sold to James A. Trowbridge of Norton, Connecticut on February 19, 1937. Mr. Trowbridge enjoyed her for nearly 33 years and her ship’s log shows many short trips up and down Long Island Sound with a favorite stop at Northport, Long Island.
Records show an overhaul and some replacements in 1957. Her original boiler was replaced first in 1926 and again in 1967. In 1972, she was sold to Robert P. Scripps of New York, and appeared in the New York Harbor for the 1976 Parade of Tall Ships. She was then sold to the American Maritime Academy on Staten Island. The American Maritime Academy used for a few years and then abandoned her. In 1988 she was acquired at auction by Mr. John H. Luhrs of Ponte Verde, Florida.
After purchasing the Kestrel in 1988, the owner chose to have the steam engine completely repaired by the renowned Conrad Milster at his boiler room at the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, New York. In 1990, she was taken to Kettle Creek Yacht Services at Tom’s River for final finishing. Some of the individual items that were salvaged and could be reused were her 1967 boiler and cylinder blocks, part of the engine shaft and assorted hardware. She now has four pineapple finials atop her compound engine.
Her interior has been completely redesigned and painted white. She has sixteen “Wylie” ports with decorative wedges, ten 22-inch deck cleats, and a compound curved sliding hatch on the forward deck. Her outward appearance shows a semi-permanent canvas awning with roll-down protective panels around her fantail stern. Her new five foot stacks displays Mr. Luhr’s private signal and brass decorative dolphins adorn her railends. Her capstan is original, while her galley has all modern conveniences and the head has a very unique brass faucet with shower attachment. During a period of five years Mr. Luhrs completed her final restoration at St. Augustine Marine Center in Florida.
The steam yacht Kestrel is representative of the period and vessels owned and operated by George Boldt.
On July 30 of 2009 Mr. Luhrs generously donated the Steam Yacht Kestrel to the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority for permanent display at the Authority’s Boldt Castle Yacht House facility for the enjoyment of present and future generations. (Official Boldt Castle Website)
Our Friends at Greater Adirondack Ghost and Tour Company shared this “photo of Kestrel docked outside her palatial new home. She sleeps inside the center (largest) berth in the yacht house.”
Kestrel at Boldt’s Boathouse, Wellesey Island (Credit: Greater Adirondack Ghost and Tour Company)
Kestrel at Keyser’s Boathouse in Essex
Nowadays I refer to our boathouse – the revitalized dock house captured in the vintage photo at the top of this post – as Rosslyn boathouse, but the name is actually slightly misleading. Rosslyn, the name given to our home by the W.D. Ross family when they built it in the 1820s, would likely not have originally been used for the boathouse.
You see the boathouse wasn’t built for another three quarter’s of a century, and when it was, the waterfront had been sold off from the rest of the property. It was purchased by Samuel Keyser for construction of a boathouse / dock house to moor and service his steam yacht, Kestrel. Sound familiar. Although the Keyser estate is located north of Rosslyn by a half mile or so, the pier on their own property was ostensibly damaged during flooding or perhaps an ice flow during Lake Champlain‘s spring thaw. (Still trying to learn more about this, but scarce information available.)
The turn-of-the century building was most likely designed and built for the Keyser family to accommodate their 62 ft. long, steam-powered yacht, Kestrel. Constructed entirely of mahogany, the yacht plied Lake Champlain’s water the 1890’s through the 1930’s, becoming as much an iconic vessel in Essex history as the boathouse has become in the century since it first adorned Merchant Row. (Essex on Lake Champlain)
Thousand Islands Field Trip
In closing this already run-on post, I’d like to make myself a promise to visit the elegant old steam yacht. Soon. And in the mean time, I’ll try to contact the staff to see if they have any interest in a few vintage photographs of the Kestrel to add to the ship’s log…
Reinventing Rosslyn’s icehouse as a hybrid home office and recreation/entertaining space has taken center stage intermittently since last summer (planning board and permitting) and continuously since last autumn (deconstruction and reconstructing). In fact, it sometimes feels like the icehouse rehabilitation has eclipsed just about everything else. This evening’s snapshot, our icehouse backlit by setting sun, appears to show the building emitting a halo of light. It kind of captures the vibes of this project in recent months!
Backlit Icehouse, May 5, 2023 (Photo: Geo Davis)
Backlit, Haiku
Old icehouse backlit; sunsetting a prior use, moon rising a new.
I’ve talked plenty about this project metaphorically backlit against the ideas of historic rehabilitation and adaptive reuse. And I’ve examined ways in which this latest chapter in a slow rolling renovation that’s been ongoing in one capacity or another since 2006 is backlit by our lifestyle choice to leave NYC and relocate to Essex. But I haven’t really developed the literal, visual impact of this charming building — my “Multipurpose Man Cave” — offset by the sun settling into the Adirondacks.
Backlit Rehab
But this deserves some ink. As too sundown and the gloaming as observed from the soon-to-be-complete icehouse terrace, patio, hot tub,… Still an unphotogenic construction site, there are never these moments, like this evening, when I get a glimpse of how things might look and feel by midsummer.
For now, no more ink. Just a backlit snapshot of Rosslyn’s icehouse rehab looming large, glowing, dramatic.
During an extended rehabilitation, renovation or even restoration, one is liable to lose track of important details. Too many small details whizzing past too fast and for too long. The brain falters. Memory fails. Photos and lists and other archives, no matter how methodically updated, fail to contain everything.
And when the dust settles questions ferment into mysteries. One such mystery is an irregular hole in the northern exterior brick wall outside the kitchen. The bricks and mortar are old, and pockmarks are more norm than exception at Rosslyn, but the size, and depth of this hole suggest that it was intentionally bored, not the result of spalling or a rifle shot.
I put the question to Jason McNulty, son of the previous owners, and periodic visitor and Rosslyn demystifier. He considered, then suggested that he hand a hunch. He would dig through old photos and get back to me.
Today he did.
Jason emailed me the photograph above with the following explanation.
I took a few minutes to investigate the mysterious hole in the wall that we noticed beneath the kitchen window. I dug out the pictures that I had taken back in 2004, and I found two pictures of the area in question. Both were taken at a bit of a distance, and… [the camera’s] resolution wasn’t sufficient to get a crystal-clear image of the area. But, it really does look like the railing surrounding the steps into the basement does penetrate the wall in that area. ~ Jason McNulty
Although the photo is dark and a little blurry, it does indeed appear to solve the mystery.
The old basement access was removed and sealed early in Rosslyn’s rehabilitation in order to eliminate cracking that was resulting from ongoing water damage to the foundation. The roof valley directed a large volume of water into this area, hyper saturation the ground and creating freeze-thaw strains each winter.
[pullquote]The doorway and stairway were eliminated and the metal pipe railing slipped from my memory.[/pullquote]
We stabilized this compromised corner by closing the exterior, sub-grade doorway (basement access) as well as another interior doorway which provided access from the oldest portion of the house into the ell. And a large concrete ballast was poured into the northwest corner of the basement to provide necessary buttressing to ensure that no further structural shifting will occur.
In the process, the doorway and stairway were eliminated and the metal pipe railing slipped from my memory. Seeing Jason’s photograph jogs my memory and confirms his hunch. Another mystery solved. Thanks, Jason!
Call it a 184-day streak. Or call it dogged determination. Either way I have 181 days to go until I reach my goal. And with each new post, each small victory, I am growing more and more confident that I will accomplish my mission of 365 posts, one complete year of daily updates beginning on August 1, 2022 and concluding on July 31, 2023.
So how to commemorate this midpoint milestone? With 6 months down and 6 months to go, it feels momentous enough to pause and praise my good fortune. But should this benchmark be acknowledged with a celebratory salute? A solemn ceremony? A toast, my first spirited sip after 31 days of teetotaling? (Yesterday marked the conclusion of my 7th or 8th, maybe even my 9th “dry January”.) Or perhaps a decadent dessert after a sugar free month? (For some sadomasochistic reason I’ve decided in recent years to add a sugar fast to alcohol abstention during the month of January, a timely recovery after the excesses of Thanksgiving-through-New Years…) A new month (ie. rabbit-rabbit) ritual transcending the delicious dinner I shared with Jim and Mark two nights ago at Juniper?
Slow Cooked Whole Rabbit: cumin, blood orange and smoked paprika glazed, corn tortillas, chimichurri, salsa fresca, refried beans (Source: Juniper at Hotel Vermont)
Maybe a romantic romp with my bride who suggested, upon retrieving me from the airport yesterday, that we celebrate a belated anniversary to compensate for the one we missed this past autumn when she was unwell. 17 years of marriage and 21 years together. I’m incredulous even as I type these numbers. Neither seems remotely possible. But my 50th birthday seemed similarly inaccurate this past spring, and I’m obliged to accept it.
Or how about we honor the 200th anniversary of Rosslyn’s front façade, ostensibly completed in 1823? (Apparently 3/5 of the building — the two window portion to the north of the entrance, as well as the entrance itself — was completed in 1820. The remaining 2/5, including the two windows to the south of the entrance and comprising the dining room downstairs, a guest bedroom and Susan’s study on the second floor, and another guest bedroom on the third floor, was most likely finished three years later in 1823, fulfilling the the architectural promise of this classic Federal home with Georgian and Greek Revival elements.
An auspicious confluence of milestones and anniversaries. I’m choosing to interpret this is a good omen even as I nevertheless acknowledge that I’ve meandered from my original mark, hoisting the flag at my halfway point, mid-journey in my post-a-day quest. I recall an earlier waypoint in this quest, an update I published on October 10, 2022 when I was still just shy of halfway to where I am today.
Yesterday marked ten weeks of old house journaling. Every. Single. Day. Two months and ten days back at the helm of this wayward, meandering, sometimes unruly experiment I call Rosslyn Redux. I emphasize the daily component of this benchmark because it’s been an important part of the goal I committed to at the end of July. (Source: Old House Journaling)
Then as now my emphasis on everyday journaling remains a top priority.
Over the last few years, Susan and I have scrutinized our hopes and expectations with Rosslyn. We have reevaluated our plans as they originally were in 2006 when we embarked on this adventure and as those plans evolved during the decade and a half since. It’s been an extended period of introspection, evaluating our current wants and needs, endeavoring to align our future expectations and goals with respect to one another and with respect to Rosslyn, and challenging one another to brainstorm beyond the present.
There’s no question but that our impromptu quarantine at Rosslyn during the spring and summer of 2021 catalyzed some of this soul-searching. But so too have the many life changes in recent years. Our gradual shift toward Santa Fe as our base and Essex as our getaway rather than the other way around. The loss of Susan’s mother. My parents’ retirement near us in Santa Fe. Our nephews and nieces growing up and expanding their orbits far beyond Rosslyn. A perennially postponed but driving desire to collaborate on a smaller, efficient, creative lakeside home of a different DNA altogether, an unrepressable will to imagine into existence the sort of slow cooked (albeit shapeshifting) and highly experimental homestead we originally envisioned in 2003-5 when we first began to explore our Adirondack Coast homecoming. And there is that hiccup in our 2006 original timeline, our 2-4 year vision for homing at Rosslyn until we’d managed to reboot and reground, until we were ready for our next adventure. Those naive expectations were eclipsed — willingly and joyfully — within the first year or two.
So what does this have to do with my daily Rosslyn updates?
Everything.
In committing to this daily practice last summer I was acknowledging that I had some serious work to do. In order for us to constructively sort through out collective vision for the future, to determine whether we’re too fond of Rosslyn to proceed with plans for designing and building the lakeside retreat we’ve conjured over the years, to honestly assess our willingness and our readiness to hand this sanctuary over to another family, both Susan and I are undertaking the sort of “deep work” that will hopefully enable us to make some decisions. I’m talking about 100% honest, prolonged consideration. Rosslyn has quite literally been a part of our family, and not just our nuclear family. Can we untangle her? Are we willing to let her go? Can we joyfully pass the privilege on to new custodians? Or are we not yet ready?
For me this daily practice, digging deep into sixteen and a half years of living and loving Rosslyn, is my time and place to work through these questions. To sort it all out. To find peace and confidence in my convictions. And six months in, I believe that I’m on the right path. Not all the time. There have certainly been some tangles and tangents that got away from me before I realized what was happening and reined them in. But the constant conversation — *internal* as I study, reflect, and compose these installments as well as *external* as I share these updates and then interact with many of you — is reinvigorating and reawakening Rosslyn from her comfortable slumber (and me from mine!)
So this midpoint milestone is a profoundly significant benchmark for me personally. It’s the tangible representation of my germinating confidence and clarity. It’s the measurable mean between a conflicted outlook and the conviction I’m hoping to discover over the next six months. In a real sense, it’s a halfway point toward the sort of rehabilitation that we’ve been undertaking with Rosslyn’s buildings and grounds since 2006, only in this case the journey is profoundly personal. Instead of historic architectural rehabilitation, it is restoration of my innermost wonder, my romantic dreams, and my idealistic hopes. With passion reawakened and a map forward becoming more apparent each day, I’m tempted to see this benchmark as the sort of celebration enjoyed upon finally reaching a base camp, a lofty peak viewable in the distance foreshadows the ambitious ascent ahead but also offers a majestic affirmation of the reachability and proximity of the summit. Today marks just such a halfway point, an opportunity to appreciate the accomplishments so far, and an incentive to forge ahead.
Once upon a time—starting in about 2005 or 2006 and concluding about a dozen years ago, if memory serves—I was on the board on Historic Essex (formerly Essex Community Heritage Organization, ECHO). Todd Goff, a fellow director, Essex neighbor, and friend, took it upon himself to correct me, differentiating for me “historic preservation” from ” from “historic rehabilitation”. I no longer remember the context, but I expect I was updating him in 2006 or 2007 on our progress in the early days of our mushrooming renovation project. Armed with a keen mind (and master’s degree in preservation), I respected Todd’s knowledge and appreciated his clarification. I expect that I used renovation, restoration, and preservation interchangeably in those days, never stopping to consider the profoundly important differences.
I most likely had not used the historic rehabilitation at all prior to that point, and learning more about it opened my eyes, ignited my curiosity, and kindled my imagination. More on fanciful end of the spectrum anon. For now I’d like to delineate for you historic rehabilitation as I understand it. (And please note that if you, like Mr. Goff, are able to advance my instruction, please advise in the comments below. Thanks in advance.)
J.C. Coatsworth Residence (Antique Postcard)
Preservation vs. Rehabilitation
Less stringent than historic preservation, historic rehabilitation emphasizes maintaining the historic integrity of architectural heritage while balancing its relevant functionality for modern day use.
Both preservation and rehabilitation are sensitive to the imperative of preserving the historic character and value of a resource, but modern functionality weighs more heavily in the case or the latter. When an architecturally significant resource is abandoned or in advanced stages of disrepair, both approaches are viable means of saving and revitalizing the resource. Likewise, both can be complex, painstaking, lengthy, and expensive processes. In fact, sometimes the scope exceeds the means and/or justification for revitalizing a property, and all too often valuable architectural and cultural heritage is indefinitely neglected and eventually lost.
The potential for integrating modern functionality (and therefor relevance) into an historic property can be the difference between its recovery or it neglect.
Sherwood Inn (Antique Postcard)
Defining Historic Rehabilitation
Rehabilitation is defined as the act or process of making possible a compatible use for a property through repair, alterations, and additions while preserving those portions or features which convey its historical, cultural, or architectural values. (Source: U.S. National Park Service)
In short, historic rehabilitation (rehab) is the process by which an historic property is returned to a state of usefulness while maintaining its historic character. Starting out with a comprehensive analysis of the cultural and/or architectural heritage ensures a solid foundation for planning the entire rehabilitation process. Drawing upon the collaborative expertise of diverse professionals, rehab must be tailored to the unique character and historic significance. Ranging from minimalist repairs and overdue maintenance to more involved intervention such as modification to ensure structural integrity, installation and/or removal of windows and doors, and even construction of non-historic additions.
Boathouse with Coal Bin on Pier (Antique Postcard)
Rosslyn’s Historic Rehabilitation
From those early days as Rosslyn’s newest stewards, when Susan and I were still running on dreams, optimism, and a totally unrealistic sense for the magnitude of the project we’d undertaken, our twin objectives were to preserve the immense heritage we’d inherited while ensuring that our new home was a functional, energy efficient modern home attuned to our needs and lifestyle. Todd helped me understand that what we were undertaking was indeed an historic rehabilitation, and that paradigm shift that he initiated catalyzed a shift in my thinking not only about our revitalization of these four historic buildings, but indeed the entire ethos underlying our pivot from Manhattan to Essex and own own personal reawakening. But I’m getting ahead of myself…
Boathouse with Ruins of Pier in Foreground (Antique Postcard)